Belfast has pulled off a remarkable transformation in recent years. The city's skyline is in a constant state of flux as redevelopment contines apace. The old shipyards are giving way to the luxury waterfront apartments of the Titanic quarter and Victoria Square, Europe's biggest regeneration project, has added a massive city-centre shopping mall to a list of tourist attractions that includes Victorian architecture, a glittering waterfront lined with modern art and a foot-stomping local music and bar scene.